A heat pump earns its keep quietly. It takes warmth from the outside air and puts it into your geyser or your pool, using far less electricity than an element does on its own. You usually only notice it when the shower runs lukewarm, the pool stays cold or the unit outside starts beeping or tripping the power.
We repair hot water heat pumps connected to geysers, and pool heat pumps, at homes across Johannesburg. The technician checks the unit, the circulation between the heat pump and the geyser or pool, and the electrical supply, finds the fault, and tells you what the repair involves and what it costs. You decide before any work starts. If your problem turns out to be the geyser itself or the plumbing around it, we'll tell you so.
Common heat pump faults we fix
Not heating the water
The unit runs but the water stays cool. A stopped circulation pump, a blocked water filter or strainer, a faulty temperature sensor, a fan that isn't turning or a refrigerant leak are the usual causes.
Fan not spinning
The fan moves the outside air across the coil, so without it the heat pump can't collect any heat. A failed fan motor or its capacitor is common, and so is a fan blocked by leaves or debris.
Tripping the electricity
A heat pump that trips the breaker or the earth leakage usually has a fault in the compressor, the fan motor, a backup element or the wiring, or water has got into the electrics. Leave it off until it has been checked.
Error code on the display
Each make uses its own codes, for things like low water flow, a sensor fault, high or low pressure, or a communication fault between the display and the unit. Note the exact code and the brand before you book.
Ice on the coil that doesn't clear
Some frost on a cold morning is normal, and the heat pump defrosts itself. Ice that builds up and stays usually means a defrost sensor, the fan or low refrigerant.
Loud noise or vibration
A rattle from the fan, a compressor that knocks or hums loudly on starting, or a unit that has worked loose on its mounts. Switch it off if the noise is new and getting worse.
Water leaking from the unit
Water dripping from underneath while it runs is usually condensation, which is normal. Water spraying or pooling from the pipe connections, the circulation pump or the heat exchanger is a leak to fix.
Cold mornings and the defrost cycle
On a cold Highveld morning, a heat pump works harder and heats more slowly, because there's less warmth in the air to collect. Frost can form on the coil at the back or side of the unit, and every so often the heat pump stops heating to melt it off. You may see steam and a puddle of water underneath while it does. That's normal, and it isn't a fault.
It becomes a fault when the ice builds up across the coil and doesn't clear, the unit stops heating for hours, or it shows a defrost or low-pressure error. Switch it off rather than chipping the ice away, because the fins and pipes behind it are easy to damage.
Heat pumps and load shedding
Many heat pumps restart on their own when the power comes back, but some don't, and the surge can damage a control board, a sensor or the display. If yours is dead or showing an error after a power cut, check the dedicated breaker for the heat pump at the DB board and the isolator next to the unit, then switch it off for a few minutes and on again.
If it still won't start, or it shows the same error, the fault is in the unit itself. Note the code and book a technician.
Heat pump, plumber or electrician?
Hot water heat pumps sit between two trades, so it helps to know who to call. A plumber deals with the geyser itself, the pressure valve, the drip tray and the pipes in the house. An electrician deals with the supply: the wiring to the unit, the isolator and the DB board.
- Water pouring from the geyser or the overflow pipe on the roof: a plumber, and turn off the water at the mains first.
- No power at the isolator, or a breaker that won't reset with the heat pump switched off: an electrician.
- The heat pump runs but doesn't heat, shows an error, makes a new noise or trips only when it starts: that's the unit, and it's our job.
Is a heat pump worth repairing?
Usually. Heat pumps cost a lot to replace, and the parts that fail most often, such as fan motors, capacitors, sensors, circulation pumps and control boards, cost a fraction of a new unit. A failed compressor or a refrigerant leak is the expensive end, and on an old unit the technician will help you weigh that against replacing it. Our repair or replace check can help with the sum.
No call-out fee when we repair it. If no repair is done, a R500 call-out applies. If you have a heat pump tumble dryer rather than a water heater, see tumble dryer repairs instead, and for an aircon, see aircon repairs.
No call-out fee when we repair it.If no repair is done, a R500 call-out applies. The technician finds the fault and explains the repair before any work starts, so you decide whether to go ahead.
Book a repairHeat pump repair questions
Why is my heat pump not heating water?
Check the breaker and the isolator, then the display for an error code. Make sure the water to the unit is open and clean the filter or strainer on the water line if you can reach it. If the fan isn't turning, the circulation pump isn't running or the water stays cool with no error, a part has failed: book a technician.
Why is my heat pump fan not spinning?
Switch the unit off at the isolator and look for leaves, a bird's nest or debris around the fan, and clear it. If the fan still won't turn when the heat pump calls for heat, the fan motor or its capacitor has usually failed. Don't push the blade to start it or open the unit's panels: book a technician.
Why does my heat pump trip the electricity?
Usually a fault to earth in the compressor, the fan motor, a backup element or the wiring, or moisture in the electrics after rain. If it trips as soon as it starts, leave it switched off at the isolator. Repeatedly resetting the breaker can do more damage. If the breaker won't stay on with the heat pump off, call an electrician; otherwise book us.
What does the error code on my heat pump mean?
It depends on the make, because each manufacturer uses its own codes. The manual, or the sticker inside the panel cover, usually lists them. Common ones point to low water flow, a sensor fault or a pressure problem. Note the exact code, the brand and the model, and send them to us on WhatsApp when you book a repair.
Is it worth repairing a heat pump?
In most cases, yes. A fan motor, a capacitor, a sensor, a circulation pump or a control board costs far less than a new heat pump. A failed compressor or a refrigerant leak on an older unit is the case to weigh up, and the technician gives you the price first so you can. Try our repair or replace check.
Why is there ice on my heat pump?
On a cold morning a little frost on the coil is normal, and the heat pump melts it off in a defrost cycle, sometimes with steam and a puddle underneath. If the ice keeps building and doesn't clear, the defrost sensor, the fan or the refrigerant level is the likely cause. Switch it off rather than chipping at the ice, and book a technician.
Should I switch my heat pump off during load shedding?
It's a good idea. Switch it off at its isolator before the power goes, or as soon as it does, and on again once the power is steady, so the surge doesn't reach the control board. If it's dead or shows an error after a power cut, book a technician.
How do I reset my heat pump?
Switch it off at the isolator next to the unit, or at its breaker at the DB board, wait a few minutes, then switch it on again. Some models also have a reset in the controller menu: the manual explains it. If the same error comes back after a reset, the fault needs finding, not resetting: book a technician.